UNIVERSITY    OF   CALIFORNIA 

COLLEGE   OF  AGRICULTURE 

BERKELEY 


AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT  STATION 

BENJ.    IDE    WHEELER,    President 
THOMAS    FORSYTH    HUNT,  Dean  and  Director 
H.   E.    VAN    NORMAN,    Vice-Director    and    Dean 
University  Farm  School 


CIRCULAR  No.  149 
(March,  1916) 


LAWN  MAKING  IN  CALIFORNIA 


By  J.  W.  GREGG 


A  pleasing  combination  of  good  country  architecture,  tasteful  planting  and 
a  good  lawn.   Panama-California  Exposition,  San  Diego,  California. 


In  California,  with  such  a  wide  range  of  soil  and  climatic  con- 
ditions, and  the  extremes  of  moisture  and  drought,  lawn  making  has 
been  a  much  neglected  phase  of  gardening.  It  is  the  prevailing 
opinion  that  good  lawns  are  expensive  luxuries,  both  in  construction 
and  maintenance,  and  that  the  same  area  would  give  greater  satis- 
faction at  less  cost  if  it  was  devoted  to  the  growing  of  flowering 
plants.  It  is  true  that  with  many  soils  in  California,  the  first  cost  of 
lawn  construction  often  appears  more  or  less  prohibitive  to  the  aver- 


age  home  owner.  When  it  is  remembered,  however,  that  a  lawn  once 
well  made  is  the  foundation  of  perfect  home  grounds,  and  that  it 
requires  no  more  general  care  than  various  flowering  plants  grown 
to  perfection  in  the  same  area,  and  that  it  furnishes  a  soft,  rich  carpet 
of  green  upon  which  one  may  walk,  romp,  sit,  or  recline  at  ease,  the 
many  advantages  and  comforts  of  lawns  will  be  appreciated  and  the 
first  cost  and  after  care  will  appear  trifling. 

For  the  purpose  of  assisting  people  to  understand  better  the  prac- 
tice of  good  lawn  construction  and  maintenance,  and  to  appreciate 
more  fully  the  value  of  lawns  as  a  part  of  beautiful  home  grounds, 
their  comfort  and  enjoyment,  this  circular  has  been  prepared. 

Because  the  lawn  is  such  an  important  feature  of  home  grounds,  no 
mistake  should  be  made  in  its  construction.  Shrubs  and  trees  may  be 
transplanted,  flower  borders  may  be  rearranged  every  year  with  com- 
paratively little  trouble  and  expense,  but  the  making  of  a  lawn  is  of 
far  greater  importance,  and  all  the  failures  and  discouragements,  no 
matter  what  the  after  care  has  been,  can  be  traced  directly  back  to 
poor,  haphazard  first-construction. 

Site  or  Location. — If  it  is  possible  to  determine  the  areas  to  be 
devoted  to  lawns,  and  to  complete  many  preliminary  operations,  such 
as  draining,  fertilizing,  plowing,  or  spading,  and  the  establishment  of 
the  rough  grade,  before  the  general  building  operations  are  begun, 
much  time  and  labor  can  be  saved.  This  is  not  always  possible  in  case 
of  small  home  grounds.  On  larger  estates,  however,  and  in  parks  such 
construction  work  can  be  carried  on  for  a  considerable  length  of  time 
in  advance  of  the  construction  of  any  buildings.  It  is  not  practicable, 
however,  to  attempt  to  make  lawns  too  far  in  advance,  or  too  near 
contemplated  buildings,  as  the  excavations  for  the  foundations  and 
cellar  will  frequently  yield  a  quantity  of  sub-soil  that  is  better  dis- 
posed of  by  hauling  away,  or  using  it  for  some  deep  fill,  than  by 
spreading  it  over  the  surface  where  it  seldom  proves  satisfactory  as 
a  lawn-soil. 

Preparing  the  Soil. — The  first  thing  to  do  in  making  a  new  lawn  is 
to  put  the  soil  into  proper  condition  to  receive  the  seed.  More  lawn 
failures  are  due  to  insufficient  preparation  of  the  soil  than  to  all  other 
causes  combined.  No  intelligent  man  would  try  to  grow  grass  upon 
a  cement  sidewalk,  yet  grass  seed  is  often  sown  on  hard,  packed 
ground,  offering  just  as  little  chance  to  take  root,  and  is  expected  to 
grow  luxuriantly,  with  little  or  no  care.  If  the  soil  is  poor  and  of  a 
sandy,  clayey,  or  adobe  nature,  and  a  good  rich  loam  is  not  available, 
satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  by  spading  in  a  liberal  quantity 
of  stable  manure.     Lawn  grasses  are  voracious  feeders  and  for  that 


reason  it  is  desirable  to  have  at  least  eight  or  ten  inches  of  good  rich 
soil.  Stable  manure  is  most  commonly  used,  especially  for  sandy  soils, 
as  chemical  fertilizers  usually  leach  too  rapidly.  Both  may  be  used, 
however,  on  heavier  soil,  the  stable  manure  not  only  adding  plant 
food,  but  greatly  improving  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil,  and 
the  chemicals  acting  directly  as  sources  of  plant  food.  The  one  great 
objection  to  using  stable  manure  is  the  amount  of  weed  seeds  it  usually 
contains.  This  trouble  can  only  be  partly  avoided  by  using  manure 
that  is  old  and  well-rotted.  Such  material  is  often  hard  to  obtain, 
however,  in  large  quantities,  and  where  extensive  lawns  are  to  be  con- 
structed, humus  may  be  added  by  sowing  some  green-manure  crop  and 
turning  it  under,  adding  later,  at  the  time  of  final  harrowing  and 
raking,  ground  bone  meal  at  the  rate  of  3,000  pounds  per  acre. 

If  the  soil  is  coarse  or  contains  red  or  yellow  clay,  it  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  to  a  depth  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  or  more, 
and  should  be  well  mixed  with  a  liberal  amount  of  the  best  manure 
obtainable.  Where  a  rich  top  soil  may  be  obtained  from  another 
source  of  supply,  and  there  is  a  sufficient  quantity  to  make  the  entire 
lawn,  there  will  be  no  necessity  to  do  more  than  thoroughly  work  the 
original  soil,  but  it  is  a  mistake,  too  often  made,  to  fill  in  small  patches 
with  foreign  soil.  It  is  much  better  to  establish  the  rough  grades  first 
and  then  spread  the  rich  new  soil  evenly  as  a  surface  dressing.  Soil 
brought  from  many  sources  is  usually  not  of  uniform  quality  or  tex- 
ture, and  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  before  spreading  it  evenly  over 
the  entire  area.  Always  grade  the  heavy  soils  first,  finishing  the 
grades  off  with  lighter,  finer,  and  more  friable  loam.  To  make  a  lawn 
partly  of  clay  and  partly  of  sandy  loam  will  invariably  produce  a 
patchy  appearance  which  can  never  be  remedied  without  remaking  the 
whole  lawn.  Unevenness  in  soil  texture  and  fertility  produces  uneven- 
ness  in  the  growth  and  color  of  the  lawn  grasses,  even  to  the  extent  of 
grass  dying  in  patches.  Oftentimes  where  there  is  much  rock  or  hard- 
pan  existing  near  the  surface,  the  sub-soil  should  be  broken  by  the  use 
of  dynamite.  Many  soils  are  also  greatly  improved  by  the  addition  of 
lime  which  loosens  up  heavy  soils,  renders  plant  food  more  available, 
and  makes  sour  soils  sweet.  Preparing  soils  in  this  thorough  manner 
permits  the  roots  of  grass  plants  to  penetrate  to  a  greater  depth  where 
it  is  cool  and  moist,  and  insures  a  strong,  vigorous  growth  and  pro- 
duces a  close,  compact  turf  which  better  resists  drought,  severe  heat, 
and  hard  usage. 

Grading. — Before  the  seed  is  sown,  the  ground  should  be  gone  over 
with  a  steel  rake  to  establish  the  final  grade  and  make  the  top  soil  as 
fine  as  possible.    Uniformity  in  the  finished  surface  before  the  seed  is 


sown  is  essential  to  a  perfect  lawn.  The  ideal  lawn  surface  on  a  large 
scale  is  of  gentle  rolling  contour,  rather  than  a  direct  slope  or  a  per- 
pect  level.  On  small  home  grounds,  however,  it  is  often  necessary  to 
have  a  perfectly  level  lawn,  and  in  many  cases  this  is  a  particular  ad- 
vantage in  the  conservation  of  water ;  the  water  spreading  and  soaking 
down  evenly  over  the  whole  level  area  instead  of  running  off  as  fast  as 
applied,  as  is  often  the  case  on  sloping  surfaces. 

Sowing. — The  next  operation  is  sowing  the  seed.  This  is  usually 
done  by  hand,  using  about  one  pound  of  seed  to  two  hundred  square 
feet  of  lawn  area.  This  heavy  sowing  is  better  than  a  thin  sowing  be- 
cause man}'  weed  plants  are  crowded  out  by  a  good  thick  stand  of  lawn 
grass.  The  seed  is  sown  evenly  when  the  wind  is  not  blowing  and 
lightly  raked  into  the  surface.  If  the  soil  is  of  a  light,  sandy  nature,  a 
good  rolling  will  tend  to  press  the  soil  around  the  seed  and  promote 
even  germination.  With  heavy  clay  or  adobe  soil,  care  should  be  taken 
in  the  use  of  the  roller,  either  rolling  very  lightly  or  not  at  all. 

In  many  sections  of  California,  mulching  the  lawn  after  sowing  the 
seed  is  a  very  desirable  and  oftentimes  a  necessary  practice.  The 
material  used  for  such  mulching  should  be  quite  fine  and  light  in 
weight.  Old,  well-rotted  and  finely  divided  stable  manure,  as  free 
from  weed  seeds  as  possible,  is  generally  used  and  applied  lightly  over 
the  surface.  After  the  mulch  is  applied  a  thorough  watering  may  be 
given  and  the  soil  kept  moist  by  daily  watering  until  the  seed  germin- 
ates. As  soon  as  the  grass  is  tall  enough  to  be  clipped,  the  lawn  mower 
should  be  used.  This  early  clipping  tends  to  check  the  top  growth  of 
the  young  grass  plants,  and  encourages  them  to  make  roots,  thus  pro- 
ducing a  firm  sod.  After  the  first  clipping  a  good  rolling  will  tend  to 
smooth  the  surface  and  promote  better  growth.  Lawns  should  be 
watered  thoroughly  about  two  or  three  times  a  week  during  dry 
weather,  preferably  in  the  evening.  Light  surface  sprinklings  for  a 
few  minutes  every  evening  are  worse  than  nothing,  and  waste  water. 

While  lawns  will  still  continue  to  be  watered  by  the  hose,  various 
types  of  automatic  sprinkler  systems  are  rapidly  coming  into  more 
general  use,  and  their  efficiency  and  economic  value  are  being  clearly 
demonstrated.  It  has  been  known  for  a  number  of  years  that  pioneers 
in  the  installation  of  lawn  sprinkling  systems  have  been  experimenting 
and  perfecting  numerous  automatic  devices  for  the  control  of  various 
section  valves,  and  for  governing  the  length  of  time  each  section 
operates,  with  the  result  that  it  is  now  possible  to  step  out  on  the  front 
porch,  or  any  other  convenient  place,  turn  a  single  lever,  and  set  an 
automatic  sprinkler  system  in  action.  Every  portion  of  the  grounds 
thus  receive  refreshing  showers  uniformly  which  distribute  a  summer- 


like  rain  in  quality  and  quantity  to  suit  the  character  of  all  vegeta- 
tion thereon.  Some  of  the  advantages  of  such  systems  are,  the  aboli- 
tion of  the  hose,  the  elimination  of  the  hose-shifter,  whose  services  are 
available  for  other  duties,  sprinkling  at  night  or  in  the  evening,  when 
there  is  least  evaporation,  the  use  of  the  entire  lawn  during  the  day 
for  recreation  and  pleasure,  a  uniform  distribution  of  water  without 
waste,  and  no  forgetting  to  move  the  hose,  or  turning  off  the  section 
control  valves.  The  cost  of  installation  is  soon  paid  for  by  the  saving 
in  labor,  hose  and  water. 

Kind  of  Grass. — The  grasses  now  being  used  for  lawn  making  in 
California  are  varying  mixtures  of  Kentucky  blue-grass  (Poa  pra- 
iensis)  Australian  Rye  grass  (Lolium  perenne)  and  white  clover  (Tri- 
fplium  r opens).  While  the  basis  of  all  lawn  grass  mixtures  is  usually 
Kentucky  blue-grass,  some  mixtures  consist  of  one-half  Kentucky 
blue-grass,  and  one-half  Australian  Rye  grass,  with  possibly  a  little 
white  clover  added.  The  Australian  Rye  grass  is  very  strong  and 
quick  growing,  producing  what  is  called  an  immediate  effect,  but  like 
all  drought-resistant  grasses,  it  does  not  make  a  good  permanent  lawn. 
While  a  perrennial,  it  seen  becomes  bunchy  and  runs  out.  It  is  wiry, 
hard  to  cut,  and  does  not  produce  the  desirable  rich  green  color.  Aus- 
tralian rye  grass  and  white  clover  when  used  in  combination  with 
Kentucky  blue-grass  often  serve  as  nurse  crops,  blazing  the  way  and 
protecting  the  3roung  Kentucky  blue-grass  plants  until  they  can  take 
care  of  themselves  and  make  a  permanent  sod.  Whether  lawns  should 
be  seeded  with  Kentucky  blue-grass  alone,  or  with  some  of  the  various 
mixtures,  is  a  question  upon  which  there  is  a  great  variety  of  opinion. 
It  is  generally  conceded,  however,  that  Kentucky  blue-grass  should  be 
used  either  alone,  for  the  best  permanent  lawns,  or  with  a  little  white 
clover  added ;  two  parts  of  Kentucky  blue-grass  to  one  part  of  clover 
being  a  good  proportion,  although  equal  parts  of  each  variety  are 
often  used. 

If  immediate  effects  are  wanted,  especially  during  the  winter 
months,  the  lawn  mixtures  offer  distinct  advantages  because  they  con- 
tain some  quick  germinating  grasses ;  and  if  the  soil  is  of  an  uneven 
quality,  and  varies  greatly  over  a  large  area,  mixtures  again  are  valu- 
able, because  one  grass  or  another  in  the  mixture  will  usually  find  its 
ideal  conditions  for  growth.  Kentucky  blue-grass  alone,  on  the  other 
hand,  makes  the  ideal  lawn.  It  is  a  very  slow  growing  grass  at  first 
and  very  weak  when  it  is  young;  when  once  established,  however,  it 
produces  a  permanent  velvety  sod  and  a  most  pleasing  effect.  In 
southern  California,  Bermuda  Grass  (Cynodon  dactylon)  is  largely 
used  for  lawns  because  it  requires  less  attention  in  the  way  of  water- 


6 

ing,  is  fairly  tolerant  of  alkali  soils,  and  tends  to  withstand  the  intense 
heat  better  than  other  grasses.  It  may  become  a  nuisance,  however, 
as  it  spreads  rapidly  and  is  very  difficult  to  eradicate.  Good  results 
may  be  expected  when  Kentucky  blue-grass  lawns  are  established  in 
the  middle  and  northern  counties  during  April  and  May,  or  immedi- 
ately after  the  cold  rains  are  past,  but  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
state,  lawns  may  be  made  earlier.  In  fact,  it  is  a  common  practice  to 
make  lawns  at  any  time  of  the  year  when  the  soil  is,  or  can  be  put 
into  proper  shape  and  good  growing  conditions  provided.  Early 
autumn  or  early  spring  are  the  two  most  favorable  seasons,  however. 

Around  the  country  home  where  it  does  not  seem  feasible  to  main- 
tain large  areas  of  blue-grass  lawns,  there  is  nothing  more  pleasing 
and  refreshing  than  ample  stretches  of  alfalfa,  carefully  irrigated  and 
neatly  grown. 

A  little  plant  that  is  now  receiving  very  favorable  consideration 
for  lawn  purposes  is  known  as  Lippia  canescens.  This  is  a  low- 
growing,  trailing  plant,  producing  grayish-green  leaves,  and  quanti- 
ties of  small  lilac-colored  flowers.  It  is  easily  propagated  by  rooting 
pieces  of  the  stems,  or  by  transplanting  pieces  of  sod  every  twelve 
inches.  It  may  be  mowed  or  allowed  to  grow  at  will.  While  it  will 
respond  to  a  light  application  of  water,  it  will  thrive  and  produce  a 
good  effect  with  little  or  no  watering.  Unlike  Bermuda  grass,  it  will 
never  become  a  nuisance,  and  can  be  easily  eradicated  at  any  time.  It 
stands  sun  and  shade  and  a  great  amount  of  tramping,  and  is  well 
suited  for  planting  in  parkings  along  streets  and  avenues,  and  on 
school  grounds. 

Mowing. — Lawns  should  not  be  clipped  too  short  during  the  hot- 
test and  driest  months  of  the  year.  The  knives  of  the  machine  should 
be  set  high  and  the  short,  fine  clippings  thus  produced  may  be  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  lawn  where  they  will  quickly  work  down  around  the 
grass  plants,  and  produce  a  mulch  that  conserves  moisture  and  pro- 
tects the  crown  of  the  plants  from  extreme  heat.  If  the  grass  is  al- 
lowed to  grow  too  long  before  cutting,  and  a  large  amount  of  clippings 
are  produced,  they  are  better  raked  off  and  taken  away. 

Weeds. — Weeds  will  usually  give  considerable  trouble,  especially 
in  new  lawns,  and  very  often  in  old  ones,  and  hand  weeding  seems  to 
be  the  only  reliable  remedy.  Weeds  should  be  pulled,  root  and  all,  as 
soon  as  they  make  their  appearance  and  are  large  enough  to  handle. 
They  are  also  more  easily  pulled  from  soft,  moist  soil  than  from  a  hard, 
dry  surface.  Perhaps  one  of  the  most  common  weeds  is  the  dandelion. 
It  is  not  sufficient  merely  to  crop  off  the  rosette  of  leaves  without  dig- 
ging into  the  soil  and  taking  out  as  much  of  the  root  as  possible.     A 


7 

long-bladed  knife  proves  an  efficient  instrument  if  run  into  the  ground 
at  an  angle  so  as  to  slice  the  succulent  root  as  far  below  the  surface 
as  possible;  the  crown  of  the  plant  may  then  be  pulled  out  and  de- 
stroyed. 

Rodents. — Moles  often  travel  through  a  lawn,  especially  if  the  soil 
is  loose  and  damp ;  they  will  always  take  the  route  of  least  resistance 
and  are  not  so  apt  to  burrow  under  a  lawn  if  the  sod  has  been  well 
rolled  and  compacted.  The  course  of  their  tunnels  should  be  thor- 
oughly tramped  down.  Mole  traps  may  be  used  if  set  carefully  over 
the  runs,  and  in  some  cases  poison  baits  may  be  used  successfully. 
Small  pieces  of  potato,  apple,  carrot  or  even  wheat  or  corn,  soaked 
for  two  or  three  hours  in  a  solution  of  strychnine  and  water  and  then 
placed  in  their  runways,  will  often  prove  effective.  Gophers  are  also 
troublesome  in  many  sections  of  the  state  and  can  be  controlled  by 
trapping,  shooting  and  poisoned  baits,  as  recommended  above,  as  well 
as  by  the  use  of  the  numerous  patented  remedies  now  on  the  market, 
especially  those  in  the  form  of  cartridges  which  may  be  placed  in  the 
runways,  where  after  being  lighted,  will  give  off  poisonous  gases, 
which  penetrate  the  workings  and  kill  the  rodents.  Bisulphide  of 
carbon,  a  highly  inflammable  liquid,  is  also  used  successfully  and  may 
be  injected  into  the  openings  by  means  of  specially  constructed 
"guns,"  which  operate  to  inject  approximately  one-half  pint  of  the 
liquid  at  one  stroke  of  the  plunger.  After  three  or  four  minutes,  the 
gas  can  be  fired  by  means  of  a  long  handled  torch  and  the  hole  tightly 
closed  with  earth.  Great  care  should  be  taken  if  torches  are  used,  as 
the  gas  is  highly  inflammable  and  an  explosion  is  liable  to  result  if  the 
operator  waits  too  long  after  injecting  the  liquid  into  the  hole  before 
firing  it. 

Insects. — The  common  millepeds  often  produce  the  round  dry 
patches  found  on  lawns.  They  eat  and  disturb  the  roots  of  the  grass 
until  it  dies.  They  are  small,  many-legged  worms,  and  are  usually 
curled  into  a  small  spiral.  Sprinkling  the  lawn  with  a  solution  of 
air-slacked  lime  and  water  will  create  alkaline  conditions  which  are 
distasteful  to  them,  and  they  will  usually  leave. 

Undesirable  conditions  are  sometimes  created  by  angle-worms; 
their  presence  is  known  by  the  casts  thrown  up  over  the  surface  of 
the  lawn,  and  if  they  occur  in  troublesome  quantities,  the  lime  and 
water  application  will  prove  effective. 

Ants  may  kill  patches  of  lawn  by  their  burrowing  and  honey- 
combing the  soil  under  the  sod.  The  most  effective  remedy  is  bisul- 
phide of  carbon.  One  or  two  tablespoonfuls  should  be  poured  in  every 
hole  and  the  hole  immediately  covered  with  earth  so  as  to  retain  the 


8 

penetrating  fumes.     It  must  be  noted  again  that  the  fumes  are  not 
only  poisonous  but  highly  inflammable. 

In  conclusion,  it  may  be  stated  that  if  a  person  woidd  give  a  lawn 
the  same  amount  of  intelligent  care,  both  in  construction  and  main- 
tenance, that  is  usually  given  any  other  important  element  of  garden 
design,  it  would  not  prove  an  expensive  luxury,  but  a  most  serviceable 
and  pleasing  part  of  the  home  grounds. 


